Black and Asian skins are more prone than “European” skins to pigment spots. Their treatment must be adapted and carried out by professionals who have regularly practiced these acts.
Black skin, skin that marks to be treated gently
To my knowledge more than 80 percent of black skin is acne. They present with hyperseborrhoea often accompanied by inflammatory cysts which, after healing, then give way to a pigment spot. This is called post-inflammatory pigment spots. We also find this type of spots which remain very visible, even years after the trauma on the scars after small cuts, light burns or deeper wounds. These are skins that mark.
One might think that these are resistant skin because they are thick, but they remember all the previous anti-acne treatments. These skins are therefore weakened with the risk of rapid burns if the peels are too strong, the skin reacting like a sponge in places. It is therefore very important to treat them gently, using peels with a high pH and therefore gentle, which eliminate the stratum corneum without irritating the skin, which could lead to the risk of hyperpigmentation in places.
To eliminate pigment spots, it is advisable to first treat their seborrheic terrain, with salicylic acid-based peels, followed by the extraction of comedones. They cause very little desquamation and do not lead to social eviction. These treatments must be accompanied by a follow-up at home which takes over from the professional peeling. For example, in the morning, a cream based on the natural acid of willow bark: salicylic acid, known since antiquity for its powers against acne. Don’t forget to apply a high factor sun protection product afterwards. In the evening, a restorative and antibacterial cream containing zinc, for example, can be used occasionally on the inflamed cysts, alternating with a depigmenting exfoliating cream such as Phytic Crème by mene&moy, Whitening Cream by Bioface or Pigment Regulator by Skinceuticals.
The peeling sessions are to be carried out every 15 days for two months. Initially oral zinc supplementation will be recommended and if the acne is too severe antibiotic therapy may be necessary. Over the course of the treatments, a notable improvement in seborrhea, a reduction in microcysts and also a reduction in pigmentary impregnation can be noted. I recommend following these sessions with a specific treatment for dark spots in order to unify the complexion and give light to the skin with the Skineclipse method offering an innovative personalized treatment combining light therapy with depigmenting cosmetic products. This specific concept takes care of dark circles and certain parts of the body, hands, feet, knees, buttocks, often more pigmented areas, frequently requested by patients who wish to harmonize the color difference of these areas.
The treatment of hyper-pigmented scars can be advantageously supplemented by the AQUA REJUVENATION® technique consisting of carrying out micro dermabrasion by projection of fruit stone powder followed by high pressure projection of micro jets of depigmenting solution. For black skin that does not present any particular problem, superficial peels based on glycolic acid will be carried out every 15 days to give radiance, have a unifying action and tighten the skin texture.
Asian skin, skin that does not tolerate depigmenting products well
Asian skin is prematurely marked with spots pigmentaryabout fifteen years earlier than in white-skinned populations. Generally, the following phenomena are observed on Asian skin: pigment spots, especially on the cheekbones, fragile and reactive skin, especially at the periocular level, which is a very easily irritated area, resistance to lasers (see impossibility of treating them with).
It is necessary to carry out repeated light peelings such as almond-based peelings (mandelic acid), very gentle, non-irritating and non-photosensitizing peels. They can therefore be used all year round, even in summer. This type of peeling causes a gentle exfoliation of the skin without causing burning or reddening of the skin. Use as a relay non-irritating depigmenting creams, leaving a cocooning care space so that the skin is soothed. I recommend one evening a week to take a break (for example, apply a moisturizing mask while taking a bath and rub it in for the night).
In the morning: Alexandrite Alchimie Forever gel or Phloretin CF serum from Skinceuticals or Flavo C from Auriga, a high factor sun protection product. In the evening: Even Better depigmenting cream by Clinique, Phyto by Skinceuticals, Depigmenting Cream, White System Lightening Serum by SKIN’ECLIPSE. You can complete the treatment with scrubs and masks once a week: Anti Oxydant Kantic Mask, Eximer Plus by Alchimie Forever.
Asian skins are difficult to treat: they tolerate few depigmenting products, the location of their spots leaves few possibilities for treatment because they are often sensitive and very reactive areas. Finally, the cosmetologist should serve as a guide to the patient, in education. Here it is a question of teaching him how to manage this pigmentation by monitoring the effectiveness of the treatment, the absence of redness in the morning on waking and also teaching him how to dose the quantity of depigmenting cream to use: dose without overdoing it.
Skin bleaching, beware danger!
Skin whitening or lightening of the skin is not only a phenomenon that affects African women, many North Africans succumb to this temptation. To whiten their skin, they use highly toxic products, without necessarily being aware of the danger they represent. If the phenomenon is a real public health problem in some African countries, Western countries are not spared. France has also launched a major campaign to raise awareness of the dangers inherent in skin bleaching.
By Nadia Leonardi, cosmetologist
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